Sculpting Confidence: Pattern Alterations for Figure Variations to Enhance Fit of Women’s Upper Body Contour Garments

Abstract

The sari blouse is a prime example of a female upper body contour garment worn in various South Asian countries, including Sri Lanka. However, many women are reluctant to wear it or are often dissatisfied with its fit. A well-fitted sari blouse enhances the overall appearance, adding value to this traditional attire. The fit of an upper body contour garment is directly affected by natural variations in female body shapes, even among individuals of the same body size. Unfortunately, many dressmakers fail to account for these body shape-related differences when crafting sari blouses, leading to widespread dissatisfaction among wearers. This study adopts a practice-led experimental approach to examine fit-related challenges caused by figure variations in standard-sized female bodies. Using a purposive sample of 30 participants, the research systematically identifies fitting issues through wearer trials and proposes seven key pattern alteration techniques as remedial solutions. These alterations focus on critical measurement points, including the shoulder line, side seams, armholes, center back, bust line, bra cut line, and center front, ensuring a more precise fit for upper body contour garments. While the findings offer valuable insights for apparel pattern designers, certain limitations must be considered. The study is based on a specific sample size and body measurements, which may not fully represent broader variations in body types. Additionally, the alterations were developed for a three-piece sari blouse, excluding variations in sleeve designs and fabric properties that could influence fit. Future research should explore the integration of 3D body scanning technologies and digital pattern-making methods to further refine fit accuracy and scalability in mass production. The results of this study contribute to improving the fit of sari blouses and similar upper body contour garments, ultimately enhancing wearer satisfaction and expanding opportunities for customized apparel solutions.